Munich

Take the U3 or U6 two stops from Marienplatz to Universität station, or walk twenty minutes northwest through the café-lined Schellingstraße for a pleasant stroll through the university district. Arrive at the world-class Old Masters gallery right at 9 a.m. when the vast halls are nearly empty. Head directly to Room II for Albrecht Dürer's mesmerizing 1500 Self-Portrait — the most famous painting in Germany, staring back at you with unsettling intensity — then cross to the Rubens Hall, which holds the world's largest collection of his works. The Fall of the Damned alone, a swirling vortex of falling bodies five meters tall, justifies the entire visit.

Tip: On Sundays admission drops to just €1 — if your dates are flexible, plan accordingly. The museum is closed on Mondays. Start in Room II and work clockwise through the upper floor; ninety minutes gives you a focused tour of the greatest hits without museum fatigue.

Walk twelve minutes southeast down Ludwigstraße from the Pinakothek — this grand boulevard was designed by Leo von Klenze to rival the Champs-Élysées, lined with university buildings and the Bavarian State Library. Odeonsplatz opens dramatically at its southern end: the monumental Feldherrnhalle loggia, modeled directly on Florence's Loggia dei Lanzi, fills the square ahead, while the butter-yellow Theatinerkirche erupts in Italian Baroque exuberance to your right. Step inside the church — free, five minutes — and look up: the pure white stucco interior and soaring dome are the finest Italian Baroque work north of the Alps, a world apart from the Rococo gold of yesterday's Asamkirche.

Tip: Stand at the south edge of the Feldherrnhalle and look north for Munich's most dramatic urban perspective: ruler-straight Ludwigstraße stretching a full kilometer to the Siegestor triumphal arch. The Theatinerkirche interior is best in late morning when sunlight pours through the dome and lights up the white stucco like snow.

Walk two minutes east from Odeonsplatz into the Hofgarten arcade — Tambosi occupies the corner building where the Renaissance garden meets the square, Munich's oldest café operating continuously since 1775. Sit on the Hofgarten terrace under the chestnut trees with the Theatinerkirche's yellow dome as your backdrop and the formal hedgerows of the Hofgarten stretching before you — this is one of the most civilized lunch settings in Munich. Order the Wiener Schnitzel (€17) or the Obazda plate with a pretzel and radish (€12), paired with a crisp Helles from the tap.

Tip: Request a table on the Hofgarten terrace side, not the Odeonsplatz pavement — it is quieter, shadier, and the garden view is incomparably better. Service can be slow at peak lunch; order your food the moment you sit down to avoid losing thirty minutes.

Walk eight minutes east through the Hofgarten, past the elegant Diana Temple rotunda, and cross Prinzregentenstraße — you will hear the roar of water before you see it. The Eisbach, a man-made river channel at the southern entrance of the English Garden, creates a permanent standing wave where Munich locals in wetsuits surf year-round, even in February snow — a sight so surreal it stops every first-time visitor in their tracks. Stand on the stone bridge for the best overhead angle as surfers carve and wipe out in the churning whitewater, or descend the grassy bank to eye level where each rider launches mere feet in front of you. It is, without exaggeration, one of the most unique urban spectacles in Europe.

Tip: Early afternoon draws the most skilled surfers — the wave is only wide enough for one rider at a time, so locals have developed an unwritten queue etiquette that is fascinating to watch. After you have had your fill, walk north along the Eisbach's east bank into the English Garden — the creek and chestnut canopy will make you forget you are in a city of 1.5 million.

Follow the gravel paths fifteen minutes north through the English Garden, past sunbathers sprawled on the wide Schönfeldwiese meadow and the occasional nude sunbather — this is Munich, no one blinks — until the 25-meter wooden Chinese Tower appears above the chestnut canopy. Beneath it sprawls Munich's second-largest beer garden: 7,000 seats under ancient trees, a Bavarian brass band playing from the tower balcony on summer afternoons, and the unmistakable sound of a thousand conversations and clinking steins. Queue at the self-service counter for a Maß of Hofbräu (€11) and a Riesenbrez'n giant pretzel (€5), claim a wooden bench, and settle into the Bavarian art of Gemütlichkeit — doing absolutely nothing, beautifully.

Tip: The upper benches without tablecloths are the self-service area where beer is cheaper and you may bring your own food — the lower tables with white cloths have waiter service at higher prices. Bring cash; most food stalls still do not accept cards, though the main beer counter now does.

Walk twenty minutes south through the English Garden and Hofgarten back toward the city center to Max-Joseph-Platz — Spatenhaus sits at Residenzstraße 12, directly facing the illuminated columns of the Bavarian State Opera house. The arched windows and warm wood-paneled dining room feel like a Bavarian hunting lodge elevated to fine dining, filled with opera-goers and locals celebrating quietly — a world away from the beer-hall chaos of the tourist quarter. Order the roasted duck with braised red cabbage and a silky potato dumpling (€24) or the Kalbsschnitzel Wiener Art with parsley potatoes (€26), paired with a Spaten Optimator dark lager (€6) to close out your Munich weekend properly.

Tip: Request the upper-floor window table facing the opera house — it is the best seat in the restaurant and the perfect farewell to Munich. Do not waste your final dinner on Platzl, the square around Hofbräuhaus — the entire block is a tourist-extraction zone with tripled prices, microwaved food, and deafening noise dressed up in a Bavarian costume.

Take the U2 to Königsplatz station and emerge directly into Munich's most dramatic square. King Ludwig I built this neoclassical plaza in the 1830s to rival Athens: the Propyläen gate frames the western horizon, the Glyptothek and Antikensammlungen flank the lawn in Ionic and Corinthian splendor. At 9:00 the stone glows warm in the low morning light and the vast space is nearly empty — a powerful contrast to the afternoon crowds. Cross the square slowly; the proportions were designed to overwhelm on foot, not from a photograph.

Tip: Stand in the exact center of the square facing west toward the Propyläen for the most symmetrical photo — morning light behind you illuminates the columns perfectly. The Glyptothek (€6, closed Monday) houses Roman portrait busts and the Barberini Faun inside, but save your museum energy for the Pinakothek next door.

Walk 5 minutes east along Arcisstraße from Königsplatz — the Alte Pinakothek's brick-and-stone facade appears through the linden trees. This is one of the oldest and most important art galleries on Earth, housing 700 masterworks from the 14th to the 18th century. Albrecht Dürer's unflinching 1500 Self-Portrait — arguably the most famous painting in Germany — hangs in Room 4. An entire monumental hall is devoted to Rubens, and Raphael's Canigiani Holy Family glows with a warmth no reproduction captures. Arrive when the doors open at 10:00 and you'll have the Dürer room practically to yourself.

Tip: Head straight to Room 4 (Dürer) and the upper-floor Rubens Hall first — both fill up after 11:30 with school groups. On Sundays, admission drops to just €1. Tuesdays the museum stays open until 20:00, making it a viable evening swap if you need to rearrange your schedule. Closed Mondays — plan accordingly.

Exit the Alte Pinakothek's south entrance and walk south along Barer Straße for 10 minutes, passing the Technical University's stone facade — turn right onto Brienner Straße and Café Luitpold's gold lettering appears on your left. Munich's grandest coffeehouse since 1888: soaring ceilings, marble tables, and the kind of unhurried atmosphere that turns a meal into an occasion. Try the Wiener Schnitzel with parsley potatoes (€22) or commit to the Hausgemachter Kaiserschmarrn — a caramelized shredded pancake with plum compote (€16). Budget €20–30 per person.

Tip: Sit in the main salon, not the side room, for the full grand-café experience. The Kaiserschmarrn is made fresh to order and takes 20 minutes — order it immediately upon sitting down if you want it as your main course, or you'll lose your afternoon window. This is the best Kaiserschmarrn in central Munich, and the regulars know it.

Walk east from Café Luitpold through Odeonsplatz, pass the golden Theatinerkirche facade, cut through the Hofgarten arcades, and cross Prinzregentenstraße — in 15 minutes you'll hear cheering before you see it: the Eisbach Wave, where wetsuit-clad surfers ride a standing wave in a city river. Watch from the bridge for 10 minutes, then follow the creek north into the English Garden. The path leads through open meadows where locals sunbathe to the Monopteros, a Greek temple on a hilltop with a sweeping view of the Munich skyline. Continue north 15 minutes to the Chinesischer Turm and its legendary beer garden: 7,000 seats under ancient chestnut trees, a brass band playing from the pagoda above, and the sound of 7,000 conversations merging into one.

Tip: Photograph the Eisbach surfers from the bridge on Prinzregentenstraße, shooting downstream — the green canopy behind the wave makes the best frame. Climb the Monopteros between 15:00–16:00 when the sun is behind you and the skyline is fully lit. Let your 30 minutes of free strolling happen naturally here — sit in the meadow, watch a surfer wipe out, let the park set the pace.

From the Chinesischer Turm, follow the tree-lined path north for 15 minutes — the canopy opens onto Kleinhesseloher See, a peaceful lake with rowing boats and resident swans. Seehaus sits right on the water's edge, its terrace one of the most romantic dinner settings in Munich. The kitchen focuses on refined Bavarian cuisine with seasonal produce: try the pan-seared Bavarian char with herb butter (€28) or the crispy duck leg with red cabbage and bread dumplings (€26). Budget €30–45 per person.

Tip: Reserve a terrace table facing the lake — call ahead or book online the morning of your visit. The sunset reflects off the water between 19:30–20:00 in summer, turning dinner into a golden hour event. Skip the flashy restaurant strip along Leopoldstraße in nearby Schwabing — most places there overcharge for mediocre food aimed at passing foot traffic. This lakeside spot is where locals come for a genuinely special evening.

Take tram 17 from Karlsplatz (Stachus) to Schloss Nymphenburg — the 15-minute ride ends at one of Europe's grandest Baroque palaces. Walk along the symmetrical canal toward the main building, which stretches wider than Versailles across a reflecting pool. Inside, the Steinerner Saal overwhelms with rococo frescoes, and King Ludwig I's Gallery of Beauties displays 36 portraits of the most beautiful women of his era — from duchesses to the baker's daughter — all personally commissioned. After the main palace, head into the park to find the Amalienburg hunting lodge: its silver-and-blue Hall of Mirrors is a tiny, perfect jewel that rivals anything in France, yet barely anyone steps inside.

Tip: Buy the combined ticket (€15) — the Amalienburg alone is worth the upgrade, yet fewer than 10% of visitors enter it. Start with the main palace right at the 9:00 opening (April–October hours) and you'll have the Gallery of Beauties to yourself. The canal approach from the tram stop is the iconic photo angle — shoot from the bridge with the palace centered between the water and the sky.

Exit Nymphenburg Palace through the southern park gate and walk south along Wotanstraße through a quiet residential neighborhood — in 12 minutes you'll hear the clinking of Maßkrüge before you see Munich's largest beer garden through the chestnut canopy. Hirschgarten seats 8,000 under ancient trees, with a fenced deer enclosure right beside the tables. This is not a tourist beer garden — it's where Munich families have spent Sunday afternoons for over 200 years. Order the Steckerlfisch (whole grilled mackerel on a wooden stick, €13) from the outdoor grill and an Obatzda with pretzel (€9). Budget €12–20 per person.

Tip: In Bavarian beer gardens you're legally allowed to bring your own food — but Hirschgarten's Steckerlfisch from the grill stand is too good to skip. Order a Maß of Augustiner Helles (€11) from the self-service counter — the beer here is gravity-tapped from wooden barrels, making it the freshest Augustiner pour in Munich. Sit in the back section near the deer enclosure for more shade and fewer tour groups.

Take tram 17 from Hirschgarten back toward the center and alight at Sendlinger Tor after 20 minutes. Walk one block north along Sendlinger Straße and you'll almost miss it: squeezed between ordinary shopfronts, the Asamkirche's narrow facade hides what may be the most spectacular Baroque interior in Germany. The Asam brothers built this as their private chapel in the 1730s, and because no patron constrained them, every creative impulse ran wild. Step inside and let your eyes adjust: the ceiling dissolves into painted heaven, gold stucco cascades from every surface, and twisted columns frame altarpieces lit by concealed windows. The entire nave is barely 8 meters wide, which makes the effect almost hallucinatory.

Tip: The church faces west, so afternoon sunlight enters through the upper windows and sets the gold leaf ablaze — visiting between 14:00–16:00 gives you the most dramatic illumination. Spend a full minute in the doorway letting your eyes adjust to the darkness; the details reveal themselves in layers. Photography is allowed but flash is not — the natural light is more beautiful anyway.

Step out of the Asamkirche and continue south along Sendlinger Straße — pass through the medieval Sendlinger Tor gate and angle left into the Gärtnerplatzviertel, Munich's most charming residential quarter. Pastel-colored Art Nouveau buildings line narrow streets filled with specialty coffee roasters, vinyl record shops, and independent bookstores. The round Gärtnerplatz theater anchors the neighborhood at its center, and on warm afternoons the surrounding lawn fills with locals reading and chatting. This is your unhurried farewell stroll — grab a coffee, browse the shops, or simply sit and watch the city go by.

Tip: Café Frischhut on Prälat-Zistl-Straße 8 (a 5-minute walk north toward Viktualienmarkt) sells Schmalznudeln — deep-fried dough pastries dusted with sugar — for about €2. Open since 1973 and beloved by locals, it's the perfect walking snack. Lines form after 16:00 on weekends, so time it right. The small shops here sell Munich-made ceramics and prints — far better souvenirs than the Hofbräuhaus keychains on Kaufingerstraße.

Walk north from Gärtnerplatz through the now-quiet Viktualienmarkt — the stalls have closed and the square feels like a different city at dusk. In 10 minutes you're back at Marienplatz. Descend the stone staircase beneath the Neues Rathaus into the Ratskeller: Munich's grand cellar restaurant since 1874, with vaulted brick ceilings, painted coats of arms, and candlelit alcoves. You're dining directly beneath the building whose Glockenspiel serenaded you on Day 1 — Munich has come full circle. Order the Münchner Sauerbraten (marinated braised beef with potato dumplings, €24) and finish with a Bayerischer Apfelstrudel with vanilla sauce (€12). Budget €25–40 per person.

Tip: Reserve for 19:00 online and request the Moriskensaal — the vaulted room to the right as you descend — for the most atmospheric farewell dinner. For your last Munich beer, order an Augustiner Edelstoff (€5.50): the premium lager that even locals consider the city's finest. A final warning: skip the Hofbräuhaus entirely. It is Munich's single most overrated experience — tour groups shoulder to shoulder, beer at inflated prices, and an atmosphere that smells like a fraternity common room. You've spent three days drinking the real Munich. Don't end on that note.

Take the U2 to Königsplatz or walk twenty minutes north from Marienplatz through the university district. The Alte Pinakothek is one of the world's great painting museums: Dürer's penetrating Self-Portrait, Rubens' wall-sized Last Judgment, and an entire room of Bruegels. The skylit top-floor galleries were engineered so morning light falls evenly across the canvases — this is the hour the paintings were meant to be seen.

Tip: On Sundays admission drops to just €1 — rearrange your itinerary if you can. The Dürer room on the upper floor gets congested by 11:30 as tour groups arrive; head there first. The museum is closed on Mondays.

Exit the museum, turn left on Barer Straße, and walk ten minutes south to Brienner Straße — Café Luitpold's entrance is at number 11, behind a small courtyard. A Munich institution since 1888 where Thomas Mann once held court, now beautifully restored with soaring ceilings and a hidden garden terrace. The lunch menu rotates weekly; their Prinzregententorte (seven thin chocolate-hazelnut layers, €6.50) is the Bavarian answer to the Sachertorte and not to be skipped. Budget €16-22.

Tip: Sit in the garden courtyard if weather permits — it is invisible from the street and blissfully quiet. The lunch rush from nearby offices peaks at 12:00; arriving at 12:30 means shorter waits and the best table selection.

From Café Luitpold, walk east through Odeonsplatz and the Hofgarten — its Renaissance arcades and Diana fountain make the fifteen-minute stroll a pleasure in itself. Exit the garden's east gate, cross Prinzregentenstraße at Haus der Kunst, and surfers appear on the bridge below. A standing wave in a narrow channel where wetsuited riders take turns year-round — there is nothing else like it in Europe.

Tip: Best photo light is in the afternoon when the sun is behind you, shooting northeast from the bridge railing for the perfect overhead angle. Summer weekends draw the most skilled surfers. Do not attempt to surf here unless experienced — beginners use the gentler Kleine Eisbachwelle further downstream.

From the Eisbach bridge, walk north along the stream — within three minutes the city noise vanishes and you are under old-growth canopy. Head uphill to the Monopteros, a hilltop Greek temple with the finest skyline view in the park: Frauenkirche's towers and the distant Alps above a sea of treetops. Continue north through meadows where locals lie barefoot in the grass, past the Chinese Tower's oompah band, to the Kleinhesseloher See — a willow-ringed lake where your dinner waits at the far shore.

Tip: The stretch between Monopteros and Kleinhesseloher See is the park's quietest corridor — most tourists cluster around the Chinese Tower. On warm days, locals sunbathe nude in designated FKK areas without ceremony; this is completely normal in Munich and worth knowing so it does not catch you off guard.

Your walk through the English Garden ends at the Kleinhesseloher See — the Seehaus sits on the lake's west shore with a wide terrace over the water. Order the whole roasted Bavarian trout (Forelle Müllerin, €24) or the Käsespätzle (alpine cheese noodles, €16) and watch the lake turn gold as the sun drops behind the trees. A half-liter of Paulaner Helles (€5.20), the sound of ducks, and nowhere to be. Budget €25-38.

Tip: Reserve a terrace table by phone for 19:00 — the online system often shows full while phone bookings still have gaps. On your walk back through the park, ignore the rickshaw touts near the Chinese Tower who charge €20 for a five-minute ride you can stroll in eight.

Take the 07:52 regional train from München Hauptbahnhof using a Bayern Ticket (€29 single, €39 for two — covers all regional trains and buses for the day). Two hours of rolling Bavarian farmland, then the Alps rise through the window without warning. In Füssen, stroll Reichenstraße — the pedestrian lane lined with Lüftlmalerei painted facades — and pause at the High Castle, whose massive trompe-l'oeil facade makes flat walls look three-dimensional, a medieval optical illusion that still fools the eye.

Tip: Bus 73 to the castles leaves from Füssen station every 20 minutes — check the schedule at the stop before exploring town so you can time your stroll. Buy Neuschwanstein tickets online at least two weeks in advance at the official Hohenschwangau site; same-day tickets sell out before noon in any season.

Take Bus 73 to the Hohenschwangau ticket center, pick up your pre-booked ticket, and follow the uphill forest path — a steady thirty-minute climb through beech trees with glimpses of white towers above. The guided tour reveals a throne room of shimmering Byzantine mosaics, an artificial grotto with a waterfall, and a singers' hall modeled on Tannhäuser. After the tour, walk ten minutes further to the Marienbrücke — a narrow iron bridge spanning the gorge behind the castle — for the photograph that put this place on every bucket list.

Tip: Your tour starts at the exact minute printed on your ticket — arrive at the castle gate five minutes early or you forfeit entry with no refund. After the tour, go directly to Marienbrücke before the next group floods the path; the walk down to the village afterward takes twenty minutes and is far easier on the knees.

Walk downhill through the forest back to Hohenschwangau village — twenty minutes of gentle descent with Alpsee glinting through the trees. Hotel Müller has anchored the village since 1886, its terrace facing the lake and the peaks beyond. Order the Allgäuer Kässpatzen (regional cheese spaetzle with crispy onions, €15) — richer and more alpine than the Munich version — or the Wiener Schnitzel (€18) with lingonberry jam. Budget €15-24.

Tip: Skip the fast-food stands at the bus stop and ticket center — they charge tourist premiums for reheated food. Hotel Müller is two minutes further and has been feeding castle visitors for over a century. Sit on the terrace for an unobstructed view of both castles framed by the Alps.

Exit the restaurant and walk two minutes south past the ticket center — Alpsee appears like a hallucination: turquoise water so clear you can count fish from the shore, ringed by forest and snow-dusted peaks. Walk the northern shore loop (thirty minutes, flat) for the best mountain reflections in the still water. In summer, locals swim from the small pebble beach near the boathouse; even in cooler months, the benches along the shore are the most peaceful seats in the Allgäu.

Tip: Leave Hohenschwangau by 15:30 to catch Bus 73 back to Füssen and the 16:05 train to Munich, arriving around 18:00 with time to rest before dinner. The Museum of the Bavarian Kings on the lakeshore is skippable unless you are deeply invested in Wittelsbach history — your hour is better spent at the water's edge.

From München Hauptbahnhof, exit the main hall and turn left on Arnulfstraße — five minutes and an unassuming archway opens into Munich's most beloved beer garden. Five thousand seats under ancient chestnut trees, strung with lights as darkness falls. Augustiner Helles, tapped from irreplaceable 200-liter wooden barrels fresh each day, is widely considered the finest beer in Munich (€9.80/Maß). Order Obatzda (€8.50) and a giant pretzel (€5) and let the Alps dissolve from your legs. Budget €18-28.

Tip: Buy your beer at the wooden-barrel stand in the self-service area — not the waitress section by the building — for the full Munich ritual. If curiosity pulls you toward Hofbräuhaus, resist: the beer is identical to what any pub serves, the crowd is pure tourist theater, and the noise makes conversation impossible. This is where Munich actually drinks.

Take the S-Bahn one stop to Rosenheimer Platz, then walk three minutes north on Kirchenstraße — the Maypole at Wiener Platz announces you have arrived. Haidhausen's village square holds a tiny daily market: a florist, a cheese stall, fruit vendors, and a wine shop serving the same neighborhood faces every morning. Buy a coffee and a Butterbreze (buttered pretzel, €2.50) from the bakery and sit on the fountain steps while the quarter wakes up around you. This is the Munich that existed before the guidebooks.

Tip: The cheese stall Thalmaier has operated here for decades — ask for a sliver of their aged Bergkäse (mountain cheese) before buying. The market runs Monday to Saturday mornings and winds down by 13:00; 09:30 catches the energy at its peak.

From Wiener Platz, walk west on Innere Wiener Straße toward the river — the Maximilianeum's golden facade appears above the treetops ahead, ten minutes through quiet residential streets. Home to the Bavarian Parliament, the building crowns a hill at the end of a grand boulevard framed by the Isar below. Cross Maximiliansbrücke for the postcard shot, then descend the stone steps to the re-wilded Isar bank — gravel beaches, fast-moving water, and Munich's best-kept urban escape.

Tip: Shoot from the bridge's west side around 10:30 when the sun hits the Maximilianeum facade head-on — this is the best light angle all day. The Isar bank paths are unpaved and uneven, so wear proper walking shoes. In summer, locals swim in calm pools near the bank; the mid-river current is strong, so only wade where others are wading.

Continue south along the Isar bank for fifteen minutes past kayakers and sunbathers, then climb the steps at Mariahilfplatz and walk two blocks east on Lilienstraße — the vine-covered facade and wrought-iron sign mark the spot. This 200-year-old inn is Munich's temple of the Knödel: the Spinatknödel with brown butter and Parmesan (€14) and the Semmelknödel with wild mushroom ragout (€13) are airy, herb-bright pillows that have nothing in common with the leaden dumplings of tourist restaurants. Budget €14-22.

Tip: Knödel are served in limited batches and the popular varieties sell out by 13:00 — arrive at 12:30 or risk eating your second choice. Reservations are essential on weekends but unnecessary for weekday lunch. Ask for the main Gaststube, not the back room, for the full dark-wood atmosphere.

Walk east from the restaurant on Lilienstraße, then turn left onto Wörthstraße — within three blocks the neighborhood transforms into Art Nouveau facades, bay windows, and streets named after French cities. Bordeauxplatz is a long plane-tree-shaded rectangle that feels more Provençal than Bavarian; on warm afternoons locals read on benches in the dappled light. Wander south to Pariser Platz, then drift through the side streets where tiny galleries and independent shops hide in ground-floor apartments.

Tip: Put away the map and follow whichever street looks inviting — this neighborhood rewards aimlessness. The small coffee roaster Vits der Kaffee on Wörthstraße makes one of Munich's best flat whites if you need a late-afternoon revival.

From Bordeauxplatz, walk south through Haidhausen's residential streets toward the Nockherberg hill — fifteen minutes past stucco houses and hidden gardens. The original Paulaner brewery restaurant sits atop the hill where monks first brewed their Salvator doppelbock in 1634, with a west-facing terrace that commands sweeping views over Munich's rooftops. Order the Schweinebraten (slow-roasted pork with crackling and potato dumplings, €19) and a Paulaner Original Münchner Hell (€5.20) drawn from the copper tanks beneath your feet. Budget €22-35.

Tip: Reserve a terrace table for sunset — the west-facing terrace turns gold from 18:30 in summer. Ask your server for a tasting of the Salvator doppelbock (€6), the double-strength Lenten beer the monks brewed to survive fasting — it is the drink that made Paulaner famous, and the perfect farewell toast to Munich.