Amalfi Coast

Take the 11:15 ferry from Positano's beach pier (€10, 25 minutes) and walk straight through the harbour archway into Piazza del Duomo, where the cathedral's Arab-Norman striped facade towers above a dramatic 62-step staircase. The exterior is the spectacle: Moorish interlacing arches, Byzantine mosaics in the gable, and a bell tower tiled in the same majolica that echoes Positano's dome. Loop around Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi to glimpse the Chiostro del Paradiso arcade through the gate and browse artisan shops still selling handmade Amalfi paper.

Tip: The staircase faces roughly west, so morning light illuminates the facade beautifully — shoot from the bottom step with a wide angle. Skip the €5 interior ticket; the exterior and the free paper-making displays along Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi give you the full story with better light.

Step down from the cathedral staircase and turn left under the arcades — Pansa has occupied this corner of Piazza del Duomo since 1830. Order the delizia al limone (€5, a pillowy lemon sponge in limoncello cream) and a cuoppo di mare from the fried-seafood cart two doors down (€8, crispy calamari and baby shrimp in a paper cone) — eat standing at the bar or on a piazza bench to skip the €3-4 terrace cover. Budget €12-18 for a full coastal lunch in fifteen minutes.

Tip: The cuoppo vendors fry to order until mid-afternoon — ask for 'ben cotto' (well done) for extra crunch. Pansa's lemon granita is the best on the coast if you need cooling down; skip the gelato shops flanking the piazza, which charge tourist prices for industrial product.

Walk east from the piazza, exit Amalfi's harbour wall, and follow the Lungomare dei Cavalieri footpath carved into the cliff above turquoise water — a breathtaking 10-minute walk where the rock face rises on one side and the sea drops away on the other. You emerge into the smallest municipality in southern Italy: Piazza Umberto I wedged between the sea and a vertical wall of houses, with no souvenir shops and no tour groups. The arched tunnel from the piazza to Atrani's pocket beach frames the most photogenic shot of the day — stand inside looking out for a composition that contrasts dark stone with bright sea.

Tip: Catch the SITA bus to Ravello directly from the stop on the main road above the piazza (every 30 minutes, €1.30, 15 minutes of hairpin switchbacks climbing 350 m). Buy the ticket at the tabacchi on the piazza before heading up — the bus driver does not sell tickets.

Step off the bus in Ravello's Piazza Duomo — after the coastal frenzy below, the hilltop silence hits you first. Villa Rufolo's 13th-century terraced gardens hang 350 metres above the sea; Wagner saw them in 1880 and composed parts of Parsifal on the spot, and when you reach the belvedere terrace and the full coastline unfolds — Amalfi, Atrani, Maiori, the sea dissolving into sky — you understand why. The lower Moorish garden, a cloister of pointed arches and tall palms, draws fewer visitors and frames the same view through centuries-old stone.

Tip: Afternoon light between 15:00 and 17:00 is ideal — the sun is behind you as you face the coast, giving saturated colours with no glare on the water. The lower terrace is less crowded and more photogenic than the main belvedere; most visitors never walk down.

Exit Villa Rufolo, turn right, and walk 2 minutes along Via Roma to this family trattoria that has fed Ravello since 1929 — checkered tablecloths, bottles of house wine on every table, and food that makes you forget you are in a tourist town. Order the mista di primi (€14, a parade of seven handmade pastas on one plate — scialatielli al limone, gnocchi alla sorrentina, ravioli capresi, and more) followed by the scaloppine al limone (€16). Budget €30-40 per person with house wine; the complimentary limoncello at the end is homemade and potent.

Tip: Arrive by 18:00 to walk in without waiting — by 19:30 every table is full and the queue stretches outside. No need to reserve; they seat walk-ins efficiently and the back room is quieter. Warning: the restaurants flanking Ravello's bus stop are tourist traps charging double for frozen-and-reheated food — walk 2 minutes past them to Via Roma where the locals actually eat.

At the bottom of your descent through Via dei Mulini, the glittering majolica-tiled dome you have been staring at from above for the last hour is now directly overhead. Step inside to find a 13th-century Byzantine Black Madonna icon that, legend says, was aboard a Saracen ship becalmed offshore until a voice called 'Posa, posa' — put me down — and the town was named. The piazza in front is the social heart of Positano, where every path through the village converges.

Tip: The church is free; the small crypt museum below (€3) is worth five minutes for its Roman-era artifacts. For the best dome photo, stand on the church steps facing uphill — the tiled dome fills the frame against the cliff wall. Avoid the piazza between 11:00 and 12:00 when guided groups congregate and block every sightline.

Walk two minutes back uphill along Via Pasitea to this trattoria shaded by lemon trees — this is where Positano's shopkeepers eat lunch, not the beachfront places charging €25 for plain spaghetti. The scialatielli ai frutti di mare (handmade ribbon pasta with clams, mussels, and shrimp, ~€16) uses pasta rolled in-house that morning. Follow it with melanzane alla parmigiana (~€10) — layers of fried eggplant, mozzarella, and basil baked until the edges turn crisp and golden.

Tip: Arrive at noon sharp — by 12:30 the shaded terrace tables are claimed. No reservation needed for lunch. Order the house white (vino della casa, ~€4 per glass), a local Falanghina that pairs perfectly with seafood pasta. Ignore the tourist-menu signboards clustered near the beach — they mark the restaurants to avoid.

Walk five minutes downhill from the restaurant through the final stretch of boutiques and ceramic shops until the path opens onto Positano's main beach — the grey pebble crescent you have been gazing down at all morning is now beneath your feet. The water is clear enough to see the bottom at three meters. Rent a lounger from one of the operators on the left side, or lay a towel on the free public section near the pier and swim straight out for the view back at the painted cliff village — an angle impossible to capture from land.

Tip: The free public section is at the far left end facing the sea. Bring water shoes — the beach is smooth pebble, not sand, and barefoot walking is genuinely painful. Best swimming is before 15:00; after that the cliff shadow creeps across the western half. The boats at the pier hawk trips to the Li Galli islands (~€15) — the view from shore is just as good, save the money.

From the western end of Spiaggia Grande, a narrow cliffside path carved into the rock winds past the crumbling medieval watchtower of Torre Trasita — stop here for a photograph of Positano from an angle no postcard uses, the ruins framing the village. In eight minutes you reach Fornillo, Positano's quieter second beach: smaller, wilder, flanked by dramatic sea cliffs. The crowd is half the size. Italian families, a couple of low-key beach bars playing jazz, no hawkers — this is the Positano that locals actually use.

Tip: Da Ferdinando beach bar at Fornillo serves excellent fried calamari and cold Peroni right to your lounger — chairs here cost ~€10, half the price of Spiaggia Grande. The connecting cliffside path is narrow with no railing in parts; go slowly, especially if it has rained. The Torre Trasita viewpoint at the midpoint is worth a full stop — it is the most interesting perspective of Positano you will find.

Walk back along the coastal path and uphill on Via Pasitea for ten minutes to this family institution — three generations, proper linen tablecloths, and a terrace catching the last amber light. The grilled catch of the day (pesce del giorno alla griglia, ~€22) comes whole from the boats at the pier that morning, served with nothing but lemon and local olive oil. End with their signature delizia al limone (~€8) — a dome of lemon sponge filled with lemon cream made from the Amalfi lemons growing on the hillside behind the kitchen.

Tip: Reserve for 19:00 at least a day ahead in season — call directly, they do not use booking apps. Request the upper terrace. After dinner, walk down to Music on the Rocks (the nightclub built inside a sea cave below the cliff) for a drink — the setting alone is worth it. Warning: the beachfront restaurants flanking the pier, identifiable by aggressive hosts standing outside, charge double for mediocre reheated pasta targeting day-trippers. Walk ten minutes uphill to eat where Positano actually eats.