Bristol

Walk southeast down Whiteladies Road for 30 minutes — a slow downhill past Victorian townhouses, secondhand bookshops, and the glass-fronted Clifton Down arcades, tracing the route locals take to reach town. The mural emerges suddenly on the flank of a sexual health clinic at the corner of Park Street and Frogmore Street: a naked man dangling from a bedroom window while a suited husband peers out. This is Banksy's most famous in-situ piece still standing on home soil, and the one the City Council officially voted to preserve.

Tip: Stand on the opposite corner by The Hatchet Inn — it's the only spot that captures the whole mural without passing cars or streetlamps in frame. The piece now sits behind acrylic glass after paintball attacks, so avoid shooting with flash; late-morning light on the Bath-stone wall is already warm enough to make the figures glow.

Continue downhill along Park Street for 10 minutes — you'll pass the Wills Memorial Building tower and the bronze Cary Grant statue on Millennium Square (he grew up in Bristol as Archie Leach). Duck into St Nicholas Market, the 1743 Georgian covered market, and head straight to the Glass Arcade where Pieminister's stall sits under a Victorian glass roof. A proper pie-and-mash here, eaten elbow-to-elbow with market traders, is the fastest honest lunch in this city.

Tip: Skip the obvious 'Moo' steak pie — order the Heidi Pie (goat cheese, spinach, sweet potato, £8) with mash, minted peas, and red wine gravy. Eat at the arcade counters under the glass roof, not on the Corn Street side — the arcade itself is the photograph. Weekday queue is 5 minutes; Saturday it's 20.

Walk west along the harbourside for 20 minutes — cross Pero's Bridge (note the two horned counterweights that lift the span), pass the Arnolfini contemporary gallery, and follow Wapping Wharf where 19th-century warehouses have become craft-beer taprooms and artisan food stalls. The SS Great Britain rises up in her original 1843 dry dock: the world's first iron-hulled, screw-propeller ocean liner, and Brunel's second masterpiece of the day. Circle the entire dockyard quay on foot — the afternoon sun on the gilded bow is precisely why this stop is 2 PM and not morning.

Tip: You don't need a paid ticket for the best shot — the free public quay on the north side of the dry dock gives you the full hull and gilded trailboard from bow angle. Then walk east along the entire harbourside loop via Prince Street Bridge back to the centre; it's the best urban waterfront in England and the 1.5 km stretch passes the M Shed, street-food stalls, and floating bars you'll regret not seeing.

Walk north up through the city centre for 25 minutes — cross Baldwin Street, pass the Hippodrome and The Bearpit roundabout, and watch the streetscape shift from Georgian polish to post-punk creative chaos. Arrive at Mild Mild West — Banksy's teddy bear lobbing a Molotov at three riot police, painted on Hamilton House in 1999 and now Bristol's unofficial flag. From here wander Hillgrove Street, Moon Street, and Jamaica Street: the densest concentration of street art in the UK outside East London, changing literally by the week.

Tip: Don't just photograph Mild Mild West and leave — the guided walking tours stop here, but 80% of the best work is in the two-block grid behind it. Look up for Nick Walker's 'The Moona Lisa' on Jamaica Street and the full-wall Inkie piece on Hillgrove Street. Late-afternoon side light (around 5 PM in summer) gives the deepest colour saturation on the paint.

Stay exactly where you are — Poco occupies the ground floor of the same Hamilton House building that carries the Mild Mild West mural, a 30-second walk from where you just stood. Inside: a sustainable, zero-waste kitchen with candlelit wooden tables, an open flame grill, and a Spanish-North African menu that locals book out weeks ahead. This is Bristol's signature sit-down dinner — end the day with a glass of Rioja while Stokes Croft comes alive after dark outside the window.

Tip: Reserve at least 3 days ahead online, or walk in at 18:30 sharp before the 19:00 wave fills every table. Must-order: the Moroccan-spiced lamb meatballs in rose harissa (£9.50) and the salt cod and smoked paprika croquetas (£7.50). Pitfall warning — avoid the glass-fronted restaurants directly on the Harbourside tourist strip around Watershed and Pero's Bridge; they charge double for half the flavor, and Bristol's actual food scene lives up here in Stokes Croft, on Wapping Wharf's east end, and on Cotham Hill.

Leave the ship, turn left along Great Western Dockyard and walk 3 minutes east to Hanover Place, a narrow lane tucked behind Wapping Wharf. Banksy's 'Girl with a Pierced Eardrum' (2014, his riff on Vermeer's pearl earring girl) covers the whole end of a former warehouse, with a real metal security-alarm box serving as the 'pearl' — the only Bristol Banksy that commands an entire building end.

Tip: Midday sun from the south lights the wall evenly — arrive 11:30-13:00 for shadow-free photos; the wall faces east and by late afternoon half the mural sinks into deep shade. The framed shot is 6m back standing in front of the metal gates opposite, not from the corner where the painted 'photo spot' arrow points.

Step 2 minutes back into Cargo, the two-deck shipping-container village, and find Salt & Malt on the upper deck. It is the harbourside chippy from the team behind The Fish Shop — beer-battered day-boat cod with twice-cooked chips (£14) and crispy crab gyoza (£8) are the must-orders, eaten on the open deck staring across at M Shed's cranes. No reservations — just walk up.

Tip: Order at the counter, then grab the outdoor table on the far end facing the water — the one by the potted olive tree. Skip the 'posh' tartare for the house curry sauce on the side (a Bristol chippy standard the menu does not advertise). Two courses for two people under £45.

Cross the bright-red Prince Street Bridge, a working 1879 swing bridge that still opens for tall masts, and M Shed fills the 1950s transit shed straight ahead. It is Bristol's free museum of itself — the Bristol Buses, the slavery-ledger room, the Concorde workshop — and in 90 minutes you genuinely understand why this city has the attitude it has. The top-floor balcony gives the cleanest panoramic of Brunel's ship back across the water.

Tip: Skip the ground-floor buses and head straight to Floor 1 'People' gallery — the slave-trade archive and the St Paul's Riots room tell you why Stokes Croft's walls say what they say. The volunteer-run harbour cranes outside fire up at 10:30 and 14:30 Sat-Sun only — a genuine industrial ballet you will not see at any other UK museum.

Walk 12 minutes north through Millennium Square, cross Anchor Road and climb the wooded path up Brandon Hill — Bristol's oldest public park since 1174, with peacocks hidden in the shrubbery. Cabot Tower (1897) marks where John Cabot set sail for Newfoundland in 1497; 109 spiral steps give the only full 360° of the city — harbour, cathedral, Clifton's Georgian terraces, and the suspension bridge silhouette in the far west.

Tip: Climb at 17:30 in June-August: the sun sets directly behind Clifton Suspension Bridge from the west-facing balcony — the shot that ends up framed. The last 20 steps are wind-exposed even in summer; bring a layer. Lock a 24mm wide lens to get the whole gorge in frame.

Walk 15 minutes back down Brandon Hill and east along Queen Charlotte Street to Queen Quay on Welsh Back — Adelina Yard sits in a converted 18th-century merchant's warehouse facing the water. Chef Jamie Randall's small open kitchen serves modern British tasting — the five-course £65 seasonal menu is the order (rabbit terrine with elderflower, Cornish turbot with samphire butter), dishes changing weekly from local farms and Cornwall day-boats. It is the one harbour-side fine-dining room Bristol locals book for birthdays.

Tip: Reserve a week ahead for Saturday; two weeks ahead for harbour-facing window table 7 — name it in the notes field. Avoid the harbour-front restaurants between Broad Quay and The Grove with chalkboard 'TWO COURSES £12' signs — they are almost all chain groups or frozen-seafood tourist traps; real Bristol chefs are inland on Queen Quay, King Street, and Wapping Wharf.