Potsdam

Walk east from the Neues Palais along the Hauptallee, the park's central tree-lined avenue stretching ahead for a full kilometre — dappled light, birdsong, and the occasional jogger are your only company. After 12 minutes a small gravel path branches south, and through the hedge a glittering golden pavilion appears. Life-sized gilded figures of Chinese musicians and tea-drinkers lounge beneath a copper palm-tree roof — Frederick's wildly inaccurate 18th-century fantasy of the Orient, and one of the most photogenic structures in all of Germany.

Tip: Photograph from the south side before 11:00 — the low morning sun makes the gold leaf blaze against the dark backdrop of chestnuts. By midday the light goes flat and overhead, and the gilding washes out into a dull yellow. Walk a full circle; the east-facing musicians catch different light than the west-facing ones.

Continue east on the Hauptallee for 10 minutes — you'll emerge from the tree canopy and the terraced hillside rises ahead of you, six curved steps of grapevines and glass-fronted forcing walls crowned by the intimate rococo palace at the summit. Climb the 132 steps through the vineyard terraces to Frederick's private retreat — 'sans souci' means 'without worry,' and this is where he escaped court life to play flute with his greyhounds at his feet. The palace is surprisingly small; this was personal pleasure, not a display of power.

Tip: Climb to the palace terrace first for the elevated view down the mile-long avenue you just walked, then descend all 132 steps and photograph the full cascade from the Great Fountain basin looking up — this is the postcard angle, with all six vineyard terraces and the palace centred at the apex. By 11:30 the sun is high enough to illuminate every terrace evenly with no harsh shadows.

Walk southeast out of the park through the Obelisk Portal — the Egyptian obelisk marks Frederick's original grand entrance — then cross Luisenplatz and continue one block south on Friedrich-Ebert-Straße, a 12-minute walk from the fountain. A Potsdam institution since 1878, with tiled floors, dark wood panelling, and the kind of unhurried atmosphere that makes you forget you're on a power walk. Order the Schnitzelbrötchen (crispy schnitzel roll, €7.50) at the counter for speed, or a bowl of Kartoffelsuppe (potato soup, €6.50) if you want something warm and filling.

Tip: Sit on the Friedrich-Ebert-Straße terrace and you're facing the Nauener Tor directly — one of the earliest Gothic Revival structures in continental Europe, built in 1755 on Frederick's personal order. Quick photo from your seat, zero detour. The Bienenstich (bee sting cake, €4.50) with your coffee is the regulars' move — custard filling, caramelised almond crust, gone in three bites.

Walk 3 minutes north from Café Heider — turn right on Gutenbergstraße and the red brick closes in around you immediately, a different city from the sandstone palaces you left behind. These 134 gabled houses were built in the 1730s when Frederick William I tried to lure Dutch craftsmen to Potsdam with a quarter that looked like home. Most of them came, looked around, and went back to Amsterdam — but the neighbourhood survived intact and is now the liveliest in the city, filled with independent boutiques, small galleries, ceramic studios, and the best people-watching in Potsdam.

Tip: The most photogenic stretch is Mittelstraße between Benkertstraße and Gutenbergstraße — shoot looking north in the afternoon when the low sun lights up the red-brick facades and throws the white window frames into crisp contrast. Skip the generic souvenir shops clustered at the northern end of the quarter; the interesting independent boutiques and galleries are in the middle two blocks.

You're already here — Maison Charlotte sits on Mittelstraße in the heart of the quarter you've been exploring, so this is a zero-step transition. A wine bar that feels transplanted from a Burgundy village: small seasonal menu chalked on a blackboard, a curated list of French and German wines, and the sound of German being spoken at every table. Order the Flammkuchen mit Ziegenkäse und Feigen (goat cheese and fig tarte flambée, €13.50) and a glass from their list (from €6). If you're still hungry, add the Rillettes de Canard (duck rillettes, €11) to close the evening properly.

Tip: No reservations needed for the outdoor courtyard tables — arrive at 18:30 and you'll have your pick, as most Germans don't eat until closer to 20:00. After dinner, walk 10 minutes south to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof for the S7 back to Berlin Hauptbahnhof (runs past midnight, so there's no rush). Avoid the tourist restaurants ringing Luisenplatz one block south — inflated prices, reheated food, and they survive entirely on day-trippers who don't know this place is around the corner.