Cambridge

Walk three minutes north along King's Parade as it becomes Trinity Street, past centuries-old bookshops with leaning timber facades. Trinity's Great Gate is the grandest college entrance in Cambridge, and through the open archway you can glimpse the Great Court — the largest enclosed courtyard in Europe — with its Renaissance fountain still running. To the right of the gate in a small fenced garden stands a descendant of the apple tree said to have inspired Newton's theory of gravity; most visitors walk straight past without noticing it.

Tip: Newton's apple tree is in the small garden to the right as you face the Great Gate — look for the gnarled tree behind a low iron railing with a modest plaque. If the gate is open, step just inside for a photo of the Great Court; porters generally allow a quick look even without a ticket, but do not walk beyond the first archway.

Continue three minutes north on St John's Street, passing the Round Church — one of only four medieval round churches surviving in England — on your right at the corner of Bridge Street. The Bridge of Sighs, Cambridge's most romantic structure, is hidden inside St John's grounds, but walk past the college entrance to Kitchen Bridge on Bridge Street and you have a perfect unobstructed view of it framed between the old and new courts, reflected in the still water of the Cam. Late morning light eliminates shadows under the arch and produces a mirror-perfect reflection.

Tip: Stand on the right-hand railing of Kitchen Bridge facing south — this is the only free public viewpoint for the Bridge of Sighs. Arrive before noon when walking tour groups begin blocking the bridge. The Round Church across the street is worth a two-minute detour for a photo of its Norman-era circular nave.

Walk south from Kitchen Bridge down Bridge Street and Sidney Street, turning right onto Bene't Street — an easy eight-minute stroll through the market district past independent bookshops and the stalls of Market Hill. Aromi is a tiny Sicilian bakery-cafe that Cambridge students treat as their canteen: pizza slices baked fresh in enormous trays and sold by the piece, golden-crusted arancini that shatter at the first bite, and not a wasted minute. Grab your food and eat on the bench in the churchyard of St Bene't's next door — Cambridge's oldest building, over a thousand years of Saxon stone beside your lunch.

Tip: Order the aubergine parmigiana pizza slice (£3.50) and one arancino with ragù (£3.50) — a perfect power-lunch for under £8. Arrive at 12:30 to beat the 13:00 university rush; the queue looks long but moves in under five minutes. Skip the pasta — the pizza and arancini are the reason this place has a cult following.

Walk west from Bene't Street down Silver Street — a gentle five-minute downhill stroll to the Scudamore's punting station at Mill Lane, where the river appears below trailing willows. Board a chauffeured punt and glide north along The Backs, the legendary stretch where the rear facades of King's, Clare, Trinity, and St John's rise from lawns sweeping to the water's edge, passing beneath the Mathematical Bridge, Clare Bridge, and Garret Hostel Bridge. Early afternoon light softens the stone to a creamy warmth, the river is quieter than the morning rush, and your punter narrates eight centuries of scandal and genius as you drift.

Tip: Book a shared chauffeured tour with Scudamore's (£22 per person, approximately 45 minutes) rather than self-hire — first-timers invariably spin in circles, and the punter's college-by-college commentary is half the experience. Sit facing backwards toward the punter for unobstructed views of the colleges as they approach. After disembarking, cross Silver Street Bridge and walk south along Queens' Road for the finest shore-level views of The Backs — the angle postcards never show — then loop back through the city centre to fill the afternoon.

After your punt, cross to the west bank and walk south along Queens' Road — a leisurely 20-minute stroll with postcard views of the college backs reflected in the river — then loop back through the city centre via Trumpington Street and turn onto Bene't Street, where The Eagle's timbered courtyard entrance appears on your right. This 16th-century coaching inn is where Francis Crick walked in on 28 February 1953 and announced to the lunchtime crowd that he and James Watson had discovered the secret of life — the double-helix structure of DNA. Order at the bar, claim a table in the cobblestone courtyard if the weather holds, and let the most storied pub in the history of science be your farewell to Cambridge.

Tip: Order the beer-battered fish and chips (£15.50) or the Eagle burger (£14.50) with a pint of Greene King IPA (£5.50) — budget £20-25 per person. Before you leave, ask the staff to show you the RAF Room: the ceiling is covered in names and squadron numbers burned into the plaster by WWII airmen using cigarette lighters and candles. Avoid the tourist-trap restaurants on nearby King's Parade — they charge twice as much for half the character.