Brighton

Exit the Pavilion gardens through the south gate and cross North Street — 3 minutes west drops you into The Lanes, Brighton's maze of 17th-century fishermen's alleys now lined with antique jewellers, vinyl shops, and slanting bow-window boutiques. You want to arrive by 11:00, when shutters are up but the daytripper crowds haven't yet clogged Meeting House Lane. The narrow 'twittens' — the local word for these alleys — are barely shoulder-width; walk slowly, duck into the smaller courts, and notice the knapped-flint 'catseye' paving underfoot.

Tip: For real antiques hit Prinny's Antiques on Meeting House Lane and the estate jewellers on Duke's Lane — these are where Brighton locals buy vintage rings. East Street is tourist tat; don't waste time there.

Weave north out of The Lanes via Meeting House Lane, turn right onto Church Street — 4 minutes brings you to Pompoko, a twelve-seat Japanese canteen tucked behind the Theatre Royal that every Brightonian knows by name. There are no tables to linger at and no reservations — you order at the counter, grab a bowl when it's called, and eat elbow-to-elbow with students and shop owners. Arrive at 12:00 sharp: by 12:30 the queue snakes down Church Street.

Tip: Order the Chicken Katsu Donburi (£7) or the Yasai Tofu Donburi (£6.50) — both are house legends, with miso soup +£1. Cash preferred; there's a £5 card minimum. Green tea refills are free.

From Pompoko walk south down New Road, cut through the Pavilion Gardens, and cross the seafront at the Aquarium roundabout — 12 minutes brings you to the Palace Pier's painted gates, Brighton's 525-metre Victorian boardwalk jutting into the Channel. Midday sun directly overhead lights the candy-striped helter-skelter and the red-and-white railings in postcard colour — the hour when Brighton looks most like itself. Walk to the very end for the full view back at the seafront; on the return leg, the amusement arcade's neon reads strongest against the dimming afternoon light.

Tip: Entry is free; rides are £3-5 each and only the helter-skelter slide at the pier's end is worth it (best view on the way down). Do not eat on the pier — the fish & chips here are £14 for what's £8 on the mainland.

Step off the Palace Pier onto the lower promenade and turn right (west) along Kings Road Arches — the pebble beach on your left, painted cast-iron railings on your right, and a 1.5-km seafront stretch that ends at the skeletal ruins of the West Pier. Opened in 1866 and burnt twice in 2003, the twisted ironwork standing in shallow water is now the most photographed ghost on the English coast. Keep walking past the ruins to the Victorian Brighton Bandstand, then on to the pastel beach huts at Hove Lawns, and turn back as the afternoon light begins to turn the Channel pink. This is the hour Brighton was made for.

Tip: Shoot the West Pier silhouette from the pebble beach directly south of the ruin, not from the promenade — the low angle doubles the drama against open sky. In Oct-Mar the starling murmuration above the ruins at dusk is worth timing the walk for.

Walk just 2 minutes back east along Kings Road from the West Pier ruins — The Regency sits directly opposite the seafront, a white-fronted seafood institution open since 1932 and still run by the Savvas family. The window tables look straight out at the sea and the pier skeleton, lit gold as the sun drops; ask for one the moment you step in. The menu hasn't changed in decades because it doesn't need to — this is where Brighton fishermen's families still eat on Sundays, and where you want to end your day before the last train back to London.

Tip: Order the grilled whole Dover Sole (£28, priced to weight) or the house fish soup (£8) with a side of chips — the two dishes locals drive in from Hove for. Arrive by 18:00 to skip the queue; reservations only for parties of 4+. Avoid the glass-fronted tourist bistros clustered around the i360 tower plaza — frozen product, double the prices, and waiters who won't tell you which fish is farmed.

Exit the Pavilion's east door and cross the lawn of Pavilion Gardens — the museum sits two minutes away in the Pavilion's converted 1902 stables. Compact and sharp: Regency fashion beside 1980s Vivienne Westwood, Brighton's Mods-and-Rockers history, and one of England's most honest LGBTQ+ social-history galleries.

Tip: Show your same-day Royal Pavilion ticket at reception for a 50% discount on museum entry — the combined saving makes the morning much cheaper than buying separately. Head straight upstairs to the Fashion Gallery; if you only have 40 minutes, that room is the one locals tell visitors not to miss. The museum café in the foyer does the cheapest proper espresso in this quarter (£3).

Exit the museum onto Church Street and walk three minutes west to the corner of New Road, opposite the Theatre Royal — a tiny glass-fronted counter with chalked kanji and a queue that moves fast. Brighton students and market traders have been eating here for 15 years. Order the chicken katsu donburi (£7.50) or the salmon teriyaki donburi (£9); both arrive in six minutes with miso soup included and fill you until dinner.

Tip: Cash preferred — bring £10 notes to skip the card-machine wait. Arrive before 13:00 or after 14:00 to avoid a 20-minute queue out the door. Shared tables only; don't expect conversation space, expect brilliant food. No reservations ever, no exceptions.

From Pompoko walk two minutes south down Bond Street — you are already inside The Lanes, the old fishermen's alleys of 1800s Brighton, crooked and cramped and lined with jewellers and antique silver. After an hour, cross North Street to the very different North Laine: wider, bohemian, vegan, vinyl, graffiti. Together they are Brighton's two hearts.

Tip: The 'Lanes' (narrow, antique, historic) and 'North Laine' (wide, boho, independent) are two distinct areas constantly confused — start at Brighton Square, follow Meeting House Lane to The Cricketers pub, then drift north over North Street. Real antique dealers cluster on Union Street and Prince Albert Street west end — the touristy 'antique' shops at Prince Albert's east end sell mass-produced replicas at triple price. Snoopers Paradise on Kensington Gardens (North Laine) is the vintage cathedral every local sends visitors to.

Leave North Laine south down Gardner Street, cross Old Steine at the war memorial and aim for the seafront arch — twelve minutes, and the pier reveals itself across the traffic with the sea glinting behind. Open since 1899, this is the last surviving Victorian pleasure pier in England. Walk it end-to-end for the classic view back at the city's white stucco; the late-afternoon sun turns the wrought iron the colour of honey.

Tip: Entry is free — you only pay for rides and the 2p pusher machines (feed in a pound, lose it cheerfully, that is the tradition). The best photograph of the pier is from the pebble beach 50 metres west, aligned with the sunset reflecting off wet shingle. Do not eat the fish and chips sold on the pier itself — overpriced and mediocre; the good appetite belongs to dinner.

Walk back from the pier up East Street and into Meeting House Lane — eight minutes, and the white-tiled window of the city's premier oyster bar glows on your right. No bookings, no tablecloths, no nonsense: marble counters, white subway tiles, a queue at the door with a glass of fizz in hand. Order half a dozen Jersey Rock oysters (£17) and the whole Dover sole à la meunière (£34) and you understand why locals celebrate birthdays here.

Tip: Arrive at 19:00 on the dot or after 21:30 to skip the worst queue; between 20:00 and 21:15 the wait hits 40 minutes on weekends. Ask for the daily whole fish off the chalkboard — it came in from Newhaven harbour that morning and doesn't appear on the printed menu. Avoid the 'Italian' and 'seafood' places clustered on East Street below the clock tower — menus in six languages are the universal red flag, the seafood is frozen, and prices run double what Riddle & Finns charges for the real thing.